Wednesday, 15 June 2011

Breakfast In The Sanctum Of Soho

By Arthur Browne.

I used to work on Warwick Street. In fact, it was just months before the plush Sanctum Soho Hotel flicked the switch on its revolving door and waved forward its clientele. It must be one of the most tranquil areas of the West End. I always thought it astounding that you could be so close to both Regent Street and Piccadilly Circus yet not get driven out into the road by the swarms of commuters and tourists that seem to zig-zag everywhere through that part of the capital.

But today I moved swiftly from a sanctuary to an inner Sanctum: the funkily modern surroundings of the Sanctum Soho Hotel’s bar and dining area cum breakfast room, dropping in to sample a spangly new spring/summer breakfast menu. The room was full of chatter and I was directed to a comfy bench opposite my chaired companion. We'd both been abstemious with the Shreddies to make sure premature tummy fullness would play no part in our first meal of the day.

I have had a fair few hotel breakfasts in my time; in a range of places and with varied star ratings. The time in Paris when I gorged myself on free croissants excepted, they usually aren't worth delaying your check-out for. Why delay for a watery coffee and a soggy piece of toast?

Good news is, guests and business breakfasters alike will be glad they made a pit stop at Sanctum Soho. I judge a good breakfast by the quality of the full English; after all, anyone can put Bran Flakes in a twisty, transparent cereal holder thingy. It was lip-smackingly bang on. Fried eggs which ran but not like a torrent; bacon where juicy meat was the majority ingredient rather than an afterthought; a sausage bursting with herby flavour. Even the tomatoes tasted like they'd been sourced, and then lightly grilled, with care. My compadre lucked out too with a generously proportioned eggs benedict drenched, but not overwhelmed, with a light Hollandaise sauce.

A very pleasant hour passed swiftly. My one regret: the time taken over the breakfast left no time to leaf through the morning papers in the sunny seat by the window, pausing occasionally to watch the world go by.

To book a table at Sanctum Soho Hotel use the simple booking thingameewidget below.


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